Monday 12th
September
Back on Stronghold
this afternoon after a seven hour journey, the best part being First Class
travel on the Pendolino Virgin Train. Although Standard class gives me a
reserved seat, it is nearly always full with little leg room and little choice
of which seat, so for another £8.00 I could travel First. At Euston there was a
Virgin First Class lounge with free tea, coffee and cookies and somewhere
comfortable to sit and wait. On the train, I had my choice of seat, steward
service for a light lunch (soup and warm roll, although there was a choice),
with a large glass of red wine and more coffee, biscuits and pretzels on offer.
There were plenty of empty seats, so no intrusion at all.
Strangely enough,
the First Class ticket from Brighton to Victoria was 50p cheaper than Standard
Class.
Back on board I
found that the boat was listing heavily to the port side, so realised that the
water had dropped by a couple of inches during the week leaving me well and
truly on the mud. There could be a problem getting off in the morning.
I did some basic
shopping and had a pint in the Dog and Partridge, being tempted to have a
carvery meal, but feeling that I would not do it justice that early in the
evening, so opened a can of chicken curry when I got back later.
Tuesday 13th
September.
Sure enough I had a
problem getting off the mud this morning. With both mooring lines off, there
was no way I could budge the boat bodily, so I started the engine. More
problems; it started OK and then died, as though out of fuel, so that was
checked and was virtually full. Try again – several times. Although it started,
it only ran for a few seconds and died again. Eventually, it ran up to full
speed and all was well - now to get off the mud. By rotating the propeller
alternately in opposite directions, I managed to scour out the mud until I
could get the stern into deep water. Only then could I reverse into midstream
and start forward to the winding hole, before making my exit through Bridge 12
and into the main line.
The Macclesfield
Canal certainly lives up to its reputation as being very picturesque, with
distant views of the high peaks ahead. Having said that, it is also fairly
shallow and one has to keep in the centre channel. It was another rare hot day
when I could wear shorts again and there haven’t been many of those days on
this trip.
After about four
hours cruising, I decided to pull over by the aqueduct at Bollington, where
there were decent moorings in deep water, within sight of White Nancy on the
hill and Clarence Mill with its imposing brick chimney. Not a lot of action
this afternoon, just a siesta in the heat, before an early evening thunderstorm
to clear the air, which precluded a visit to the pub and the highly recommended
Italian restaurant.
Clarence Mill, now converted into retail and business units.
White Nancy on a nearby hill.
Wednesda 14th
September.
Having been living
out of a tin since getting back, it was time to stock up the fridge at
Macclesfield. I was quite amazed at the liberal mooring spaces on the welcoming
pontoons just after the winding hole. Not only that, but three days mooring
were allowed here.
Three minutes walk
away was a Co-Op, so I stocked up with the basic essentials there, before
walking the three quarters of a mile to Tesco for the more eclectic items. I
was about to run out of prescribed tablets in a couple of weeks and I certainly
was not going on another trip home just to get those, so I sought advice of the
pharmacist in the store. Strangely enough after looking at the prescription she
told me that she used to live there when at university in the town – small world
again! The outcome was that she would phone my surgery and ask for a
prescription to be faxed back for dispensing in the morning – it was as easy as
that!
It was another red
hot day and the walk up the hill back to the canal (yes it is at the top of a
hill), was a bit of a struggle having bought more than I intended as usual.
Catching a bus crossed my mind, but not one appeared in either direction in the
thirty minutes it took to walk.
I had a pint in The
Puss in Boots across the road, locally known as The Puss! Not a very impressive
collection of ales; all being national brands and nothing local – could do
better.
Thursday 15th
September.
I looked up the
trip from Macclesfield to Banbury on Canalplan AC and found that I could get
there easily in two weeks by travelling five hours a day, so my estimate of
timing was very close to reality. Banbury Canal Day is of course centred around
the area of the town where the canal passes through and I have captained one of
the water taxis there for quite a few years. Every year that I have been, the
weather has been glorious, which draws the crowds in their thousands. Although the
taxi day boats are akin to steering a sack of potatoes, I enjoy the atmosphere
and camaraderie of other boaters that I know there.
Well, after saying
that getting a prescription filled away from home is easy, the opposite appears
closer to reality. First of all, the pharmacy would not answer the phone, so I
decided to risk it and walked. They seemed to have no idea what I was talking about
when I asked at the counter, until someone remembered that the pharmacist I
spoke to yesterday, who had a day off, had told someone else that I would be
in. Looking on the computer brought no indication that it had been faxed
through, so they phoned my surgery again and to my relief it came to light. It
would seem that this pharmacy is as well organised as my one at home. Are they
all like this I wondered? The whole operation took well over two hours.
The original Hovis Mill.
A turnover bridge, also known as a snake bridge on the Maccy.
This enabled the towing horse to change towpaths from one side to the other,
without unhitching the tow line.
Original mile post.
The hill known as "The Cloud"
I moved on a few
miles in the afternoon to a very pleasant rural mooring out in the sticks. No
road noise, no trains and no planes – idyllic. On the way I came to Royal Oak
Swing Bridge, which is used by a minor road, but fairly busy at that time of
day. Being all electric, I closed the barriers from the offside, there being a
convenient footbridge to cross back to the towpath. At the same time, a white
BMW stopped to wait with an attractive blonde lady driver with halo eyes. I
asked her if she would like to close the bridge after I had sailed through,
which she did and seemed chuffed to be asked, as well as speeding her on her journey.
Shortly after, I
spotted nb Alton moored up at their base and so stopped for a pump out by
Anne-Marie. We chatted about various boating things and mutual friends we both
knew on the cut. She also remembered my boat when refuelling another boat close
by at Marple a few days ago.
Friday 16th
September.
Bosley Locks were
on the list for today – all twelve of them. The rain that was forecast began
about 9am, so it was a late start when the rain stopped two hours later. No
chance of any help from another boat, as they are single locks, which are quick
to fill and empty. There were no footboards across the top pair of gates, so it
was not possible to make that “leap of faith” and save the walk around each
lock to work the opposite gate. It was a day off for any volunteers too, so it
was all down to me and hard on my dodgy hip too. On one or two locks I could
bow haul the boat out, close the gates (double gates both ends of each lock),
before boarding at the lock tail. Most of them however, did not have anywhere
to get back on board at the lock tail and any jetty on the offside was taped
off as dangerous, so it was a lock ladder job and every lock was a deep one.
Four hours later I
reached Lock 12, the last one. There were good moorings with rings just beyond
the lock waiting bollards and that was enough for me for today.
Saturday 17th
September.
A very pleasant
sunny morning greeted me for a lock free day; well almost, just a one foot stop
lock to negotiate near the end of the Maccy.
A better example of a turnover bridge.
Not a lot to report
for this trip, but I have to say that the Macclesfield Canal lives up to its
reputation of being one of the most attractive the system has to offer. Credit
must go to Thomas Telford for the high tech design at the time of all locks in
one place and a level stretch of water sustained by cuttings and embankments
throughout. The views of the Peak District to the west are splendid and the
towns are mostly by-passed, so without a map to show where they are, they are
almost invisible.
Arriving at
Hardings Wood, which is the southern terminus of the Maccy, I made enquiries of
a passer-by if the Bluebell Tavern was open, so with a positive reply, I moored
up temporarily to have a pint at this well known inn. When I say well known,
that applies to CAMRA aficionados who enjoy a well kept pint or two.
I had stopped here
two years ago and know from experience that the pub kept strange hours. It
seems that it is under new ownership and is now open from midday from Tuesday
to Sunday until eleven pm (closed all day Monday). The collection of real ales
on hand pump were both extensive and eclectic and I enjoyed a pint of Church
End brewery’s Gravedigger at 3.8%. With the landlord’s permission, I took a
couple of photos inside and had a chat with one of the locals about cameras.
The Blue Bell.
The Bar.
Spoilt for choice.
I had looked at the
times for traversing Harecastle Tunnel and it appeared that I would be OK to
get the last passage through that day. What I missed was that the times change
after September 1st, so I was an hour too late. Moorings here are
somewhat precarious in nature, being prone to local banditry, so I reversed
away from the tunnel entrance and decided to take a chance on a permanent
mooring on the offside, opposite the junction. I could be moved on if the owner
returned, but it was worth the risk and I was only going to be here for one
night. It was also in the setting sunlight, so was extremely attractive.
Sunday 18th
September.
A quiet night with
no problems and I was awakened by a boat reversing hard as it came out of the
Maccy at the junction. A quick cup of
tea and on to the tunnel waiting area, where there were three boats ahead of
me. After the usual briefing by the tunnel man and some required reading, which
he repeated anyway, we were on our way at two minute intervals. An added
requirement this time was to have a torch at the back end so that the reductions
in roof height could still be seen by the steerer after being shown up by the
headlight. I think that this was the problem that caught out the steerer a
couple of years ago, who was probably using a headlight only. This meant that
after illumination by the headlight, the white marking showing up the reduced
headroom becomes invisible to the steerer. It was so low in a few places that I
had to duck down from a standing position. I have often seen steerers sitting
on bar stools at the stern of the boat and this is asking for trouble even in
the open air. I use a powerful 12 volt light plugged into the electrical system
on Stronghold, which has saved the back end of the boat striking the tunnel
wall on several occasions. I would not like to pass through a tunnel without
it.
Cruising through
the desolate potteries was fast in a wide and deep canal, until I passed the
Caldon Junction and came to Stoke Locks – single again. Fortunately, I had some
assistance through all five and could descend all of them on board the boat.
Meaford and Stone Locks were much the same on this busy stretch, but I was on
the move from 08.00 to17.00 and am about two miles and seven locks ahead of my
schedule to be at Sutton Stop on Saturday.
Moored by a centre line only around a tree on the towpath.
This is so dangerous to towpath users, even with hazard tape on the line. CRT?
Bargees? Who are they?
Moorings in Stone
were rare at 5 pm, but another single handed boater offered to move his boat to
give me space and then helped me moor up, for which I was very grateful after
such a long day.
Monday 19th September.
It was shopping
time again, so a visit to Morrison’s was necessary. I stopped on the way back
for a bacon and cheese Shropshire oatcake and coffee at the Oatcake Cafe. The
chandlery was a walk back towards the lock, so I paid them a visit to browse
the inverters – what a disappointment; they only had one. It has to be Midland
Chandlers then at Braunston.
I did not set off
until 2pm and it took four hours to get to Great Heywood, with a few well
spaced locks in between, all of which were all set in my favour as I met boats
coming the opposite way and had help passing through at several of them.
Reaching Great
Heywood at 6pm, I had a pint at The Clifford Arms, which brought back memories
of other happy times there.
Tuesday 20th
September.
Only four single
locks to do today, so not too strenuous to get to Fradley Junction. Dry weather
again, so another lucky day to do five or six hours cruising. I passed nb
Dexta, where cheap diesel was to be had, so I checked out the fuel level before
getting there and I was still fairly full.
I think that this
is the first time that I have ever passed through Rugeley without stopping; there
are good moorings here very close to Morrison’s and Tesco, but time was of the
essence this week and I had no need of victuals.
Attractive waterside gardens at Rugeley.
And other things to lighten the day..............
........so no speeding!
I had to cope with
two of the three locks at Fradley, but had assistance with the third, so got
back on board to take Stronghold out. Coming around the junction, I made a
decision to stop for the night and have a look at The Swan, which had been
taken over by new people a while back and not before time either, as the
kitchen was closed down for hygiene reasons when the previous tenants had it.
There is a wider choice of ales on hand pump and the menu looked much more
tempting than the previous one, so things are looking up. The Swan aka “The
Mucky Duck” is known for being the most photographed pub on the waterways, I
restrained from taking one, but you can see it here:- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fradley_Junction
Wednesday 21st
September.
A later start this
morning than intended and mostly a lock free day, apart from the two at
Glascote. It was overcast most of the day and sometimes chilly in the wind when
there was no tree shelter.
Through Streethay
and past the boatyard and workshops, where the A38 traffic roars noisily past,
so hardly the best place for a quiet night. It was then through the village of Hopwas
with its two pubs, neither of which I have been in so far. Maybe one day.
At Fazeley Junction
I came across nb Gabriel moored up and slowed down for a brief word with James,
having last met at Saltaire, but no moorings available, so I couldn’t stop.
Eventually The
Samuel Barlow came into sight at Alvecote and I pulled in close to the pub,
hoping that I could receive their wi-fi signal on board; I was lucky again, so
could actually publish the blog after so long in the wilderness.
Thursday 22nd
September.
I had a rude
awakening this morning at 06.00 with what sounded like gas bubbles from under
the boat. This I had heard before when moored over rotting rubbish, but not to
the same extent as this. I pulled open the window for a look alongside the boat
and there was a duck frantically trying to get out of the water and on to the
bank. The problem was that it was trapped in a 6 inch gap between the hull and
the piling, caused by my large inflated fenders, which blocked an exit at both
ends. It appears that it did extricate itself somehow, because there were now
three ducks on the bank, instead of two. How it got there in the first place, I
failed to understand – maybe the other two ducks pushed it in the water!
Before slipping the
moorings this morning, I phoned Roger Hart, NBT member and Atherstone Locks volunteer,
to see if there was the possibility of help up the Atherstone Flight of eleven single
locks. He assured me that help was available and got to work making
arrangements. Sure enough, a phone call later confirmed that John Radcliffe
would take me up the flight, meeting at Bradley Green service point at an
appointed time. We both arrived at the same time and Roger introduced me to
John. After exchanging a few words and dumping my rubbish, John and I departed
for the bottom lock. As always with a stranger, we soon established a rhythm of
working and did the flight in 2hrs 20mins. Without John assisting, it would
have taken me twice that time, so I was extremely grateful to him.
Strangely enough,
nb Pompey Chimes from the Wey Navigations was moored up close to the bottom
lock.
John radcliffe, my very helpful Lockie up the Atherstone Flight.
After stopping
above the top lock for a bite to eat, I moved on to The Anchor pub, which I had
heard had been taken over by new tenants in the last year and had been
reflourbished, so I was keen to see what changes had been made.